I was looking for a way to increase my low-end torque and after some research, I found the answer- A SuperChip!  Let me start off by saying that I was going to get the LPM chip from the SHO shop along with the 80mm MAF but Doug Lewis convinced me otherwise.  His opinion is that SuperChips chips are better than the LPM.  The good thing about the LPM is that you can get lifetime upgrades to the chip as you modify your SHO.  Well, I ended up getting the 70mm MAF so there was no need for me to get the LPM.  Besides, the LPM is sold for $299 and I got my SuperChip for $190.  Now which would you say is the better bargain?  They both basically do the same thing.  The only downside I see with the SuperChips is that it will cost you around $70 to get your chip upgraded. (Don’t quote me on the prices.)  The only need I see to upgrade the chip is if you get a supercharger or NOS.
You can check out SuperChips webpage at www.superchips.com and see what they say about it.  They sell the chip for $245.  I got the same chip at Performance Plus for $190.  They are a modem dealer for SuperChips so you will get the same quality.  Doug Lewis at FPS Automotive said that he would match the price of $190.  You will have to give them the four-digit code located on the computer behind the glovebox.  It is in big black bold letters/numbers.  Ex. D4U1.  Check out the procedure to find out how you can access the computer.

    Ok, now a little info on what the SuperChip actually does.  SuperChips will explain everything in technical terms like what it does to the fuel curve and all of that good stuff.  I am going to tell you what I noticed after I put the chip in.  Let me first tell you that you will not see a drastic change but a significant one that will change the drivability of your SHO.  When I pushed the accelerator lightly, I got a smooth surge of power, which indicated that the low-end torque has gotten a lot better.  (I have an automatic so the effect of the SuperChip may be different for a manual.)  I then pushed the accelerator down a little farther.  SuperChips claims that the secondary runners should open up at around 3500 rpms from 4200 rpms stock.  I found that it opened up at around 3900-4000 rpms.  Not bad, but it would have been nice if it opened up at 3500 rpms.  I then floored it and I managed to rev up to 7300 rpms.  I was only able to rev up to 6800-6900 rpms in stock form.  Lookin good so far.  I also noticed that the shift points were a little bit stiffer which improved the drivability.  My SHO is feeling more and more like a performance animal.

    Ok, how do you install the chip you ask?  Well, let me start off by saying that the instructions that the SuperChips chip came with will do you no good if you are trying to take out the computer from behind the glove box.  Some of you might have some luck but I found no way to take it out unless I take out the whole dash.  How did I manage?  Well, I didn’t want to do anything rash as far as taking out the computer so I gave Doug Lewis a call at FPS.  He told me that I wouldn’t have any luck in taking out that computer.  He said that he does the installation with the computer in place behind the glovebox.  Ok, no problem.  I just needed the right stuff.  Well, I’ll tell you what you will need and what you will do with it.
 

What you will need:
 

• Small flathead screwdriver (very small)
• Cotton swabs or alcoholic cleansing pads if you have them
• Emery pads (nail files if you didn’t know)
• Flashlight
• Ratchet set (I forgot what the size of the bolt is…it may be 5/13)
• A little bottle of compressed air would be nice.  (the ones used for dusting computers)

What to do:

    The first thing you have to do is to clean the computer contacts.  When the computer came out of the factory, it came with a greasy coating and a silicone coating on the contacts.  You have to clean the contact thoroughly before you install the chip.  VERY IMPORTANT!!  If you do not clean the contacts properly, you can damage the computer as well as the chip.  SuperChips does not warrant a damaged chip because of improper cleaning of the computer contacts.  Now that you know that bit of fact, you should take your time while you do this.

    1.) IMPORTANT: Before you do anything, turn anything off in your car and take out the keys from the ignition.  You can’t listen to any “tunes” while you do this.  It may damage your computer.  Ok, open up your glovebox.  Take out everything in there or you will end up with everything spilling all over the car floor.  If you look in the glovebox, you can see where there are two rubber stoppers on each side that is preventing the glovebox from falling down onto the floor.  Bend the plastic sides so that the rubber stoppers can pass through.  Don’t worry, the plastic won’t break.  (well, it shouldn’t)  Now you can see behind the glovebox.  If you look straight back, you can see the computer nestled on the top.  There is a plastic bracket, which is holding the computer in place.  You will have to remove the little bolt that is holding it in place.  After you remove the bracket, you can see the little sticker that gives you the code for the computer.  TIP:  You can unhook the white hose that is probably in your way.  This should give you easier access for you to clean the connectors.
    2.) Ok, use the flashlight if you can’t see.  Take off the black cover with the sticker on it, by prying it off.  You can see the connectors now.  Use the cotton swab and wipe off both sides of the connector.  There is a greasy yellow coating on it right?  You will probably have to use a couple of swabs.
    3.) Grab an emery pad. (75 cents at Pathmark…8 in a box!)  Tear off a little strip of the alcoholic cleansing pad.  You can find these in a computer store. (don’t worry, they’re cheap)  Wrap it around the tip of the emery pad.  Now, wipe off both sides of the connectors.  If you were too lazy to get the cleansing pads, you can use a cotton swab with a LITTLE bit of rubbing alcohol on it.
    4.) Grab your little flathead screwdriver and GENTLY scrap off the silicone coating on the connectors.  You have to be careful not to damage the connectors itself.  Scrape off both sides.  You can see the silicone scrapings.  It looks a little white or clear.  Anyway, do this a couple of times…GENTLY.
    5.) Darn silicone won’t stop coming off huh.  Yeah, I got a little restless myself.  Ok, I learned this trick from Doug.  Use the emery pad and gently sand the connectors on both sides.  Use the side where the pad is the LEAST harsh.  Wipe the connectors down every time you sand it using the little cleansing stick that you made.  Keep replacing the strips of the cleansing pad as you wipe the connectors down.  You don’t want to make the connectors even dirtier.  TIP:  Keep using a different emery pad if you got ‘em.  You can also rotate the pad so that you can use the other end. (Amazing isn’t it?)
    6.) When do you know when you’re done?  Good question.  Use your judgement.  Just make sure that you’re not sanding the metal connectors down too much.  TIP:  When you see that the tip of your emery pad is getting dark and when you wipe the connectors down and see that the pad is dark, you’re done.  You’re shaving the metal connectors down now.  That’s not good, but you should be ok if you stop there.
    7.) If you have one of those compressed air cans used to dust computers, use it to blow out all of the silicone shavings.  Wipe down the connectors one more time with the cleansing pad.
    8.) Time to install the SuperChip.  The logo for the SuperChip on the chip should be upside down when you put it in, if I remember correctly.  If you look at the chip and the connector, you can figure out how the chip goes in.  When you put it in, it should conform perfectly to the computer, meaning the SuperChip is not hanging off any edges.
    9.) What about the plastic bracket?  Well, since the SuperChip is in place of the bracket, the plastic bracket won’t fit that well.  SuperChips suggests that you may want to drill another hole for the bracket.  Hey, if you have the time, go for it but if you are like me, you want to get this thing done.  You can just wedge something on top of the computer so that the computer doesn’t jiggle around.  Once again, use your judgement on choosing a reasonable wedge.
    10.) Replace the white tube if you took it out and then put your glovebox back in place.  You’re all done!

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    Go for a spin and see how it feels.  If it seems like your SHO has a loss of power or if it runs really crappy, you didn’t clean the connectors properly.  Turn off the engine as soon as possible and take out the chip.  See if your SHO is ok with the chip out.  If everything’s ok, you will have to do a little bit more cleaning.

    Try driving your SHO with the chip and then compare it with the chip out.  Can you feel the difference?  Well, that’s one of the good things about this mod.  You can take it out in a few minutes if you don’t like the chip anymore.

    Ok, I’m sure there are a few SHO owners that are worried that their factory warranties will become void if they put aftermarket parts on.  I still have a factory warranty and I started to put mods on my SHO almost as soon as I bought it.  It is illegal for the Ford dealers to void your factory warranty because you slap on some aftermarket parts.  IT CANNOT VOID YOUR WARRANTY.  The only thing is that if an aftermarket part breaks down on you and the warranty covers it, don’t expect Ford to pay it.  That’s up to the manufacturer of the aftermarket part.

    I hope this gave you a little insight on SuperChips chips.  I totally recommend the chip, especially if you have an ATX (automatic) like me.  Feel free to email me with any questions.
 
      Allen Lee